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Well I just saw this question and it’s 14 hours old so it’s probably too late. But yes. The electricity doesn’t care if it goes through a clamp or bare wire. But be careful that you don’t have gasoline fumes present and then make a spark by touching the wire to the battery. Poof! Also, if you still have the clamp that fell off the jumper cable you can use it by putting the wire between the jaw and the battery terminal (tricky with a side terminal battery) to hold it there. One more thing; someone should wire this thing in properly and eliminate the jumper cable. It’s not an expensive or complex thing to do. I’m wondering why you even need a generator. Are you off the grid?

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It may work but not a good idea !
You may be going through a lot of fuses.
One of the items would be ok plugged in, but four is over doing it.
Most cigarette lighters are rated at 20 Amps
Besides it looks tacky and all those wires in the way

Have somebody professionally wire it for you

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How long depends on several factors.

1) how old is the battery? If more than 6 yrs old it probably should be replaced. Older batteries develop these ‘tendrils’ or ‘dendrons’ which can inhibit the battery’s charging (same goes for rechargeable batteries – it’s why they don’t come all the way back to 1.5v after a few recycles.). Do you see any white or yellow powder built up around the terminals? If so, these must be cleaned before you try to recharge. Fortunately, fixing this is very simple. Remove the cables from the battery. Take a few cups of water and add a tsp of baking soda. Mix & pour over the terminals (they will bubble up as the baking soda neutralizes the acid.) You may need to use a bit of steel wool to help remove heavy crusts. Then rinse with clear water & dry. Apply a bit of battery terminal grease (any auto parts store has this for a couple of bucks then reattach the cables & tighten them firmly. Jump your battery properly – positive to positive, the negative of the GOOD car to a metal connection or frame of your car. NEVER connect both ends of the negative cables to batteries…they CAN & DO explode!

2) Is your alternator in good shape? A loose belt or bad alternator can take a LONG time to recharge a battery 3) Have you turned everything else off i.e. The radio, a/c or heater, lights etc? These will drain the power faster than your alternator can replenish it.

So, if you still want to recharge it, first see if there are caps on the top of the battery. If so, CAREFULLY remove them – opening them away from your face. If you can see the grills of the battery sticking up out of the liquid add distilled – NOT tap – water to the proper depth. Then replace the caps. If there are no caps yours is a sealed battery that can’t be checked.

The best way to recharge a battery is with an inexpensive battery charger rather than by jump starting it car to car. (That’s for emergencies only). Charge batteries OUTSIDE – never indoors! (I had a neighbor accidently burn his house down doing this). This way you can leave the charger on and watch to see if the recharge takes. If it won’t charge, then the battery is no good.

After you get your car running (with all accessories off) it should be checked with a battery tester. If you don’t have one leave the car running for about an hour – If it goes dead again then you have to accept the battery’s no good. If you live in a cold climate you definitely need a new battery before the next cold season.

IF the battery’s in fair shape it should take a full charge in about 4 hours or less. If it takes longer – the battery’s no good.

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Read the instructions that came with the battery charger to make sure you know how your specific battery charger works.
Connect the battery charger to the battery. If the battery is connected to the car, attach the positive (usually red) charging cable to the positive post (usually marked with a plus sign). Then attach the negative (usually black) charging cable to the engine block. Do not connect the negative cable to the negative post while the battery is in the car. If the battery is not connected to the car, attach the positive charging cable to the positive post. Then attach the negative charging cable to the negative post, usually marked with a minus sign.
Turn the “Volt/Amp Selector” to the appropriate type of battery chargers as http://www.external-battery.net/products/2200mah-portable-external-battery-charger-sw-vtb-04-for-iphone-.htm and amps, and make sure that the correct “Volt” switch is selected for the size of battery.
Plug the battery charger into an appropriate outlet. If the cord has a ground, plug it into a grounded outlet. Do not alter the cord in any way.
Use the ammeter to measure battery-charging rate.
Turn the “Charge Time” to set how long you want to charge the battery. Use the ammeter to measure battery-charging rate. Use the battery test monitor to see if the battery is in working condition.
Turn the battery charger off. Unplug the battery charger from the outlet. Turn the “Selector” and the “Charge Time” to “Off.”
Remove the negative battery charging cable first, then remove the positive charging cable.

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Red to positive and Black to frame…

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Yes it would still work correctly

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If the battery is good it will charge up enough in an hour to start it, remove the battery cables and hook charger to the battery for an hour and then it should fire up if the battery is any good.

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What guess78624 is saying only more to the point; Diagnose the problem. Charge and test the battery, test the charging system. Of course if money is no object just go with all the guessing and buy one of everything.

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The batteries that came with your camera are perfectly fine to use. But, they won’t last for long because they don’t hold much power. So, they’re not the type of battery you should use all the time because they drain too quickly and you have to buy new ones again and again and again. They’re fine for emergencies, but other than that, they’re a complete waste of money.

For cost effectiveness and better power, you need to buy rechargeable NiMH batteries (2500mAh or higher) and a charger. These batteries need to be charged, used and charged again a few times before they reach maximum charge capacity. They also drain when not used. So, you need to make sure you give them a charge…especially if you haven’t used your camera in a while.

The only other good power option is non rechargeable Lithium batteries. Energizer make 2 types. One provides up to 8x more power than regular alkalines and the other, up to 4x more power. These are quite dear to buy, but are perfect as a backup battery. The great thing about these batteries is that they don’t drain like the NiMhs. They have an incredible storage life of 10-15 years…making them perfect as an emergency backup battery.

Good luck…

P.s. Don’t forget that your LCD screen uses most of your battery power. So, try to turn it off in-between shots and limit how long you spend reviewing images and playing around with the Menu. Also limit using the flash and recording movies because these also use lots of battery power. Even zooming in and out needs lots of power. And, if your camera has continuous AF (Auto Focus) that also uses lots of power. So, I recommend you turn it off if your camera has it.

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Two things -

Batteries.
Both these cameras take rechargeable batteries only.
That’s okay if you’re near a mains supply or carry a car/mains charger.
Probably carry a spare battery that you can recharge where you can.
A camera that takes AA batteries would be better. Not only can you carry a set of rechargeables and charger but you can get disposables most places. There are even solar chargers available for AA batteries. Rechargeable AAs are also useful for torches, radios and with one of those little adapter thingies, emergency power for mobile phones.

Second there’s robustness.
Neither of these cameras are built to survive any rough handling. And damp will kill them overnight if you get caught in the rain.
Those extending lenses are prone to getting sand, grit and fluff in there that jam them, rendering the camera useless.
Look at getting one of the waterproof, dustproof, shockproof, freezeproof cameras offered by most manufacturers. Cameras like these…

Http://www.amazon.com/Pentax-W90-Waterproof-2-7-Inch-Black/dp/B0039237GU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1279355659&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/Casio-Slim-line-Endurance-Digital-Optical/dp/B002WC8PK6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1279355659&sr=1-2

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-D10-Waterproof-Stabilized/dp/B001SER460/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1279355828&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/Olympus-Stylus-Tough-8000-Stabilized-Black/dp/B001P06Q5C/ref=sr_1_24?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1279355828&sr=1-24

These will survive if you do.
The only problem is that none of them use AA batteries

I do realise that those links are useless for you to buy from but it’s the cameras that are important. Scroll down for camera details, down further for customer reviews.